The secret to not wearing out a carving bar? Just don't use it... OK, that was lame but seriously bars will wear out. A busy carver will wear them out or "blow them up" like in the example earlier in one year no problem.
Solutions:
-Sharp and I mean SHARP chains cut faster and efficiently thus reducing needed pressure to the tip of the bar when plunging.
-Many people trim off the back half of the teeth at an angle. That works. But be warned it will be much more agressive come time to zip in that fur where you only want to skim the surface a bit.
-Carving habits. Do not be the "all or none guy/girl" I've sold many carving bars to carvers that feel the need to have the throttle wide open even when doing the lightest work. Feather the throttle back to where you feel the saw working and cutting well. If it's not, the chain is dull.
-V groove in the tip of the bar. This is typically the culprit and result of the above problems. Friction and heat wear the tip down in the middle of the rails at the tip creating an angled surface for the chain straps to ride in, not on like it should be, IN. Then we push a little too hard with a dull chain and tons of gas and there ya go. The chain is pushed in like a wedge and splits out the tip.
It's gonna happen. Hard to be in the habit of removing the chain and dressing the tip of the bars back to that nice clean rail angle that it's supposed to have.
I sell Cannons and Oregon bars. They both get blown up the same from intense use.
Save yourself some grief once the bar has gotten this way and probably crippled your chain, if your chain is all kinked up, toss it. There is no way I know of to resurrect a defiled chain. But it will continue to improperly wear your newly dressed bar.
OK so you have my two cents worth. But I feel that after selling bars, chains, sprockets and a myriad of other carving supplies and discussing at length the issues of many carvers, I have a fair understanding of why the bars and chains will fail.
Just my opinion folks.
WWW.bestdrillpressguide.com
or call as many of you still do........
See ya.
Bob
Solutions:
-Sharp and I mean SHARP chains cut faster and efficiently thus reducing needed pressure to the tip of the bar when plunging.
-Many people trim off the back half of the teeth at an angle. That works. But be warned it will be much more agressive come time to zip in that fur where you only want to skim the surface a bit.
-Carving habits. Do not be the "all or none guy/girl" I've sold many carving bars to carvers that feel the need to have the throttle wide open even when doing the lightest work. Feather the throttle back to where you feel the saw working and cutting well. If it's not, the chain is dull.
-V groove in the tip of the bar. This is typically the culprit and result of the above problems. Friction and heat wear the tip down in the middle of the rails at the tip creating an angled surface for the chain straps to ride in, not on like it should be, IN. Then we push a little too hard with a dull chain and tons of gas and there ya go. The chain is pushed in like a wedge and splits out the tip.
It's gonna happen. Hard to be in the habit of removing the chain and dressing the tip of the bars back to that nice clean rail angle that it's supposed to have.
I sell Cannons and Oregon bars. They both get blown up the same from intense use.
Save yourself some grief once the bar has gotten this way and probably crippled your chain, if your chain is all kinked up, toss it. There is no way I know of to resurrect a defiled chain. But it will continue to improperly wear your newly dressed bar.
OK so you have my two cents worth. But I feel that after selling bars, chains, sprockets and a myriad of other carving supplies and discussing at length the issues of many carvers, I have a fair understanding of why the bars and chains will fail.
Just my opinion folks.
WWW.bestdrillpressguide.com
or call as many of you still do........
See ya.
Bob